궁중팥죽

On a chilly evening, I was hanging out with my friends Apple and Bean, a lovely couple who have let me serve as a third wheel for many food adventures. Bean, who had just recently visited the dentist, was hungry and was only able to eat something that didn’t require much chewing. As we tried to think of a place that would both be open while specializing in such a dish, Bean decided that she was in the mood for 호박죽 (hobakjuk; pumpkin porridge) and began to search the web for a decent spot. The only place that appeared to be open was across town.

Our journey took us to 궁중팥죽 (Gungjung Patjuk; Court Bean Porridge) in Unam-dong. The restaurant was a small place that was a bit of an uphill climb away from the louder, brighter spots in town. Despite its very traditional look and limited menu, it was nice to see that the place was filled with tables and chairs, though the menu lacked pictures and translations. As the name indicated, the main feature at the restaurant was 팥죽 (patjuk; red bean porridge), which is what I got. Other options included 동지죽 (dongjijuk; patjuk with rice cake), 호박죽, 바지락칼국수 (bajirak kalguksu; clam noodle soup), 수제비 (sujebi; hand torn noodles), and cold choices like 검정콩국수 (gumjeong kongguksu; black sesame soy milk noodles), 비빔국수 (bibim guksu; spicy mixed noodles), and 잔치국수 (janchi guksu; noodles in anchovy broth). As expected, Bean went for pumpkin while Apple, who was not in the mood for porridge, made a clammy choice.

After we ordered, we quickly received our limited, but tasty sides. While the kimchi, pickled radish, and bean sprouts were expected, I was surprised by the plate of 찰밥 (chalbap; chewy rice) that we got. I can’t say I’ve ever had rice with beans as a side dish, but I certainly enjoyed eating it.

It didn’t take long for our food to arrive, and when it did, all of it came piping hot. I may have burned my mouth a few times while attempting to navigate through my bowl of thick noodles swimming in a red bean sauce. I had been expecting rice, but was informed that the noodle version was fairly common and often to be expected. As someone who has associated red beans with dessert, I was shocked by the lack of sweetness in my dish. If anything, the beans teetered closer to savory territory than anything. It was unlike anything I had tried in the past. With the addition of a few pinches of salt, I ended up enjoying it more than I thought I would. I did reserve a small portion of it to eat with sugar, as many of the locals do. The sweeter version had much more of that dessert taste I was expecting, but I can’t imagine eating an entire bowl of it for dinner.

Bean’s bowl of pumpkin goodness was basically lava that smelled and tasted of fall and was filled with extra soft rice cake. The porridge portion was sweet and comforting, but I can’t say I’ve ever been a fan of rice cake in this form, even as someone who typically loves rice cake. There’s something about the slimy texture that can be difficult to handle, and my taste buds always sense a touch of bitterness in the center that makes it difficult for me to eat more than a couple. Bean also chose to eat around most of the pieces of rice cake. Apple’s noodle soup, which came with a ton of clams, vegetables, and knife-cut noodles, offered a light, savory contrast to the rest of our heavier meals. As a shameless addict when it comes to noodles, I definitely approved.

At the end of our adventure, we walked away from 궁중팥죽 with full bellies filled with warm, comforting food. Though I personally didn’t grow up with these dishes, I could definitely understand how others would seek them out for the a hug in the form of dinner. The restaurant definitely wasn’t lacking in flavors, adding that perfect touch of homemade comfort with each bite. While I know not everyone may be down for hot noodles swimming in a sauce made of red beans that are typically used for sweets, I would recommend more adventurous types to give this spot a try, especially as we start to enter the colder months.

Address: 광주 북구 운암동 952-6
Phone: 062-514-5289
Hours: 09:30 – 21:00
Average Price: 6,000 to 7,500